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Post by AlbEagle on Sept 16, 2020 22:41:51 GMT 2
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Post by polarair on Sept 27, 2020 10:59:48 GMT 2
Nice work unfortunatly i have the Saitek  |
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Post by AlbEagle on Sept 27, 2020 14:27:29 GMT 2
Nice work unfortunatly i have the Saitek Hi Mike, That shouldn't be an issue, you can do the same with saitek as well, all you need is the yoke (handle) and the controller, the rest can be done as above (even though i never had a saitek yoke, the principle should be the same). You might need to cut and extend the wires so if you don't feel confortable you better don't do it, there arr always risks damaging something. |
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Post by vincent on Oct 31, 2020 17:33:26 GMT 2
Hello there ! Thanks for the design, love it. Just starting printing the parts:   |
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Post by AlbEagle on Nov 1, 2020 0:17:55 GMT 2
Hello there ! Thanks for the design, love it. Just starting printing the parts: Glad i could help  |
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dgm
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Post by dgm on Nov 6, 2020 21:11:27 GMT 2
AlbEagle,
Your yoke modifications look really cool. I may follow them at some point when I get the rest together (close). Curious if you have a solution for using the radiostack with MSFS2020? I can get many of its components working with the stock MSFS2020 152 but would love to port the steam gauge 172 from A2A to MSFS2020.
Dan (DGM)
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Post by AlbEagle on Nov 8, 2020 1:07:20 GMT 2
AlbEagle, Your yoke modifications look really cool. I may follow them at some point when I get the rest together (close). Curious if you have a solution for using the radiostack with MSFS2020? I can get many of its components working with the stock MSFS2020 152 but would love to port the steam gauge 172 from A2A to MSFS2020. Dan (DGM) Hi Dan, On my simulator I am still using the DIY version of the radio stack (not the PCB Version). No reason for that, just no time to change it and it is working as is. I have tried the Cessna 172 of the MFS2020 and it is working fine, and that is the plane I mostly fly with, so I don't know about the A2A Cessna, maybe someone else has had experience with it and can share their thoughts and ideas. |
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Post by polarair on Nov 14, 2020 15:36:03 GMT 2
On my simulator I am still using the DIY version of the radio stack (not the PCB Version). Are you saying that you never tried the PCB version yourself. How do we know what works and not. Im a bit stunned |
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Post by AlbEagle on Nov 14, 2020 18:03:04 GMT 2
On my simulator I am still using the DIY version of the radio stack (not the PCB Version). Are you saying that you never tried the PCB version yourself. How do we know what works and not. Im a bit stunned Sure I have, you see the pictures on the website, all the displays are working, the rest is just buttons and switches, since the dyi version was working fine, i never bothered changing it as i never had much time, you need to understand that this is a hobby and not my primary job and also thats why it says work in progress. The purpose of this forum was also people to help each other, i try as much as i can to answer whenever i have time and not to forget that i haven't been working on it for a while now. But still as i was saying all the displays are tested and working, encoders as well, and the rest buttons and swithes and of course programing it. There might be some mistakes in some tracks maybe, as in the last case with dme encoders which are easy to fix. |
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Post by polarair on Nov 14, 2020 19:42:50 GMT 2
Again dont missunderstand me. I was just surprised.
I have been contributing code info and im moving on.
As for the radio stack pcb i noticed that if using all the displays and encoders the arduinos are just strugeling with the same nits. But ill hook all up to a faster computer. Check to voltages and keep on going.
I appreciate your work. And understand its work in progress. Unfortunatly i cant change much as the board is the board.
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Post by AlbEagle on Nov 14, 2020 21:52:53 GMT 2
Again dont missunderstand me. I was just surprised. I have been contributing code info and im moving on. As for the radio stack pcb i noticed that if using all the displays and encoders the arduinos are just strugeling with the same nits. But ill hook all up to a faster computer. Check to voltages and keep on going. I appreciate your work. And understand its work in progress. Unfortunatly i cant change much as the board is the board. All is fine, i like your idea of using AM and sharing the experience and code. About strugeling i thought it was Mobiflights fault and using AM would make let us know why after using it for some time you notice a delay. If this doesn't happen with AM than it is mobiflights fault, if it still happens than it can also be because of the arduinos. |
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dgm
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Post by dgm on Nov 15, 2020 6:55:26 GMT 2
Thanks for the comment Albeagle.
I was a little limited in my thinking. I'm realizing now that although the c172 in FS2020 is a G1000 cockpit I can still hook things up to use the radiostack and steam gauges and have them function normally, ultimately I won't be using any of the on-screen cockpit, just the view out the window. That will work fine for me. So far I'm amazed at how well things work, the VOR's, the radio panel selectors, and the DME. I still have some work to do to program the ADF, transponder and autopilot.
Dan
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Post by above1 on Nov 25, 2020 22:01:07 GMT 2
I've got all the ordered parts here and all 3D printed parts for the yoke. Since I printed the parts exactly as they are on the STL files, I found it impossible to find a plastic or PVC tube that had an OD of 25.5mm which is equivalent to about 1" here in the states. Don't know why we don't move to a metric system. But anyhow, I ended up getting a aluminum tube with a 1" OD and an ID of 0.75". Fits the rings perfectly
My question is regarding the shaft. I read it should travel 11.5" (292mm) from end to end. When I push it from the center position it should move ~5.75" (146mm) inward and when I pull it should travel 5.75"(146mm) outward. To me it sounds about right but I'm not a pilot and the last time I stepped into a 152/172 I was a kid.
This way I know exactly how long to cut the tube to account for the piece that is actually connected to parts.
Thank you,
Larry
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Post by AlbEagle on Nov 28, 2020 3:12:02 GMT 2
I've got all the ordered parts here and all 3D printed parts for the yoke. Since I printed the parts exactly as they are on the STL files, I found it impossible to find a plastic or PVC tube that had an OD of 25.5mm which is equivalent to about 1" here in the states. Don't know why we don't move to a metric system. But anyhow, I ended up getting a aluminum tube with a 1" OD and an ID of 0.75". Fits the rings perfectly My question is regarding the shaft. I read it should travel 11.5" (292mm) from end to end. When I push it from the center position it should move ~5.75" (146mm) inward and when I pull it should travel 5.75"(146mm) outward. To me it sounds about right but I'm not a pilot and the last time I stepped into a 152/172 I was a kid. This way I know exactly how long to cut the tube to account for the piece that is actually connected to parts. Thank you, Larry Hi Larry, I have never boarded a Cessna, I took the measurements from these pictures:   Here I could see that the travel should be 18cm to 20cm from end to end, so travel would be 9 - 10 cm outward and the same inward. |
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Post by above1 on Nov 28, 2020 5:41:44 GMT 2
thanks.. I'll use that.
Larry
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