kklee6
Junior Member
Posts: 87
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Post by kklee6 on Jan 14, 2021 4:29:15 GMT 2
3D printed Dual knob and button Built a filter for 7 segment display. I am quite satisfied with the filter and the button fits well, but need to try the dual knob again.  |
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Post by above1 on Jan 14, 2021 17:49:25 GMT 2
Looking good.
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Post by AlbEagle on Jan 14, 2021 20:42:00 GMT 2
Yes it is looking good  . You can also mount the arduino shield on the back of the radiostack using spacers. The holes should be aligned. |
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Post by eloute on Jan 14, 2021 22:07:21 GMT 2
Looks fantastic!
I noticed you don't have the two wires coming out of your dual encoders anymore? what were they for? I meant to ask earlier but didn't bother as I was having issues with my board. I have 5 replacement boards coming in from JLCPCB and ordered more components to try the project again.++Also, How tall are the spacers you are using?
Thanks
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kklee6
Junior Member
Posts: 87
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Post by kklee6 on Jan 15, 2021 2:00:44 GMT 2
Hi eloute, The wires are connected to the push button switch of the dual encoder and I only connected them to the COM1, COM2, NAV1 and NAV2 encoders. I program the COM1/2 switches as "PULL 8.33k" i.e. switching between 8.33kHz increment and 25kHz increment (but of course the 8.33 kHz increment cannot be shown correctly on the 5-digit COM1/2 display in this PCB). I used the 14mm or 15mm tall nylon spacer purchased from Tao Bao.  KK |
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kklee6
Junior Member
Posts: 87
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Post by kklee6 on Jan 15, 2021 2:59:20 GMT 2
Yes it is looking good . You can also mount the arduino shield on the back of the radiostack using spacers. The holes should be aligned. Hi Alb, I tried but unfortunately I used the L-shape 40-pin headers and it blocks some of the mounting holes. I am still thinking of other ways to mount the Arduino shield.  KK |
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Post by nighteagle on Jan 19, 2021 15:54:24 GMT 2
Hello,
with the filter looks good. What material you have use for that?
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kklee6
Junior Member
Posts: 87
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Post by kklee6 on Jan 20, 2021 9:37:32 GMT 2
Hello, with the filter looks good. What material you have use for that? I use a red-tinted 3mm acrylic sheet and stick a 25% light transmission laminate on the top.   |
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kklee6
Junior Member
Posts: 87
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Post by kklee6 on Jan 21, 2021 20:35:39 GMT 2
panels completed.  The last step , 3D printing buttons and knobs, is going to be very time-consuming. It took me 1 hour to paint a set of knobs for one single dual encoder. |
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Post by AlbEagle on Jan 21, 2021 21:15:04 GMT 2
Great job, looking great |
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kklee6
Junior Member
Posts: 87
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Post by kklee6 on Jan 22, 2021 11:25:34 GMT 2
A little modification: added OMI markers
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Post by eloute on Jan 22, 2021 15:19:23 GMT 2
A little modification: added OMI markers Oh that's fantastic!!! Very cool |
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kklee6
Junior Member
Posts: 87
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Post by kklee6 on Jan 24, 2021 11:48:48 GMT 2
Installed Annunciator LEDs and Autopilot LEDs. Those LEDs were too bright. I ended up replacing the 220 Ohm resistors with 10 kohm resistors for the annunciators. I may change the autopilot panel LED resistors later too. So I would suggest experimenting with various values of the LED current limiting resistors or using sockets.  |
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Post by AlbEagle on Jan 24, 2021 17:00:33 GMT 2
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kklee6
Junior Member
Posts: 87
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Post by kklee6 on Jan 25, 2021 1:05:58 GMT 2
I ran out of black filament. So I will 3D print the knobs in white and then spray them with black model paint. About the ring, I am still doing some research. It seems that the ringed knobs only found in some old model radio panels. Thanks for the advice anyway. BTW, I tried to 3D print the button labels. But my 3D printer do not have good enough resolution to do the job. How can you solve the problem? Many thanks KK |
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. You can also mount the arduino shield on the back of the radiostack using spacers. The holes should be aligned.
