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Post by AlbEagle on Jan 8, 2024 23:05:40 GMT 2
BTW I don't know if you remembered, but the holes for the ident button where too small, hope you fixed that too in 3.2? and changing the text on R105 to 10K.... No, I have completly forgotten, Ill correct them now. Thank you for reminding me. Done! |
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idekkers
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Post by idekkers on Jan 9, 2024 18:48:26 GMT 2
OK, we have a problem - I've soldered the second board, and the 2 main problems remain - all the buttons on shift register 2 still do not work, and NAV1 MHz also does not work - and there is no short now
I have soldered wires directly from NAV1 MHz to pins 12 and 13 and it does not work, I imagine i need to cut a few more traces?
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Post by AlbEagle on Jan 9, 2024 19:59:02 GMT 2
OK, we have a problem - I've soldered the second board, and the 2 main problems remain - all the buttons on shift register 2 still do not work, and NAV1 MHz also does not work - and there is no short now 1. Can you please confirm that: a) you are using Input 13 of 74HC165 - 5 for COM1. b) you have installed both shift registers (they are both put in place) 74HC165 - 5 and 74HC165 - 6
c) take two working shift registers from the other ones and put them in 5 and 62. NAV1MHz - can you please check with a multimeter if NAV1MHZ- pin is connected to pin D12 of Arduino and NAV1MHZ+ pin is connected to pin D13 of Arduino like in the picture below Can you please also check again if you are using pin D12 and D13 for the NAV1 Encoder in Mobiflight. ![]()  |
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Post by AlbEagle on Jan 9, 2024 20:15:53 GMT 2
Sorry for asking again but just want to make sure we have done everything correctly, can you please also confirm that you have done only these two changes as described. Please check the second picture and make sure you have cut that trace on the pin D43 like in the picture. 1. On the back side of the PCB, you need to cut the trace near the small dot (that's pin D43) and solder a wire from pin D43 to pin 9 of 74HC165 - 4 shift register  2. Again, on the front side you need to cut the track beside the dot (that comes from pin D38). That is right below the 5th pin counting from the right, as in the picture below.  Than on the back side, you connect a wire from that dot, or directly from pin D38 to pin 9 of 74HC165 - 6.  |
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idekkers
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Post by idekkers on Jan 9, 2024 20:22:41 GMT 2
checked the NAV connections,
it's connected to 12 and 13, and I tried to jump both legs to both pins - none of them work.
also, for some reason, occasionally one of the pins does respond for a click or 2
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Post by AlbEagle on Jan 9, 2024 20:26:05 GMT 2
checked the NAV connections, it's connected to 12 and 13, and I tried to jump both legs to both pins - none of them work. also, for some reason, occasionally one of the pins does respond for a click or 2 I think it might be a faulty encoder. I would suggest to take another encoder (doesn't have to be double encoder), and just use it externally, by just touching the wires on the NAV1 Encoder pins, eventually directly on D12 and D13 and GND and see if it is working. |
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idekkers
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Post by idekkers on Jan 9, 2024 20:30:14 GMT 2
as for the shift registers - I imagine 4 is for the main switches, and 6 is for the 3 top buttons and encoders?
also which is pin 5 which is connected to COM1 ?
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idekkers
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Post by idekkers on Jan 9, 2024 20:32:39 GMT 2
checked the NAV connections, it's connected to 12 and 13, and I tried to jump both legs to both pins - none of them work. also, for some reason, occasionally one of the pins does respond for a click or 2 I think it might be a faulty encoder. I would suggest to take another encoder (doesn't have to be double encoder), and just use it externally, by just touching the wires on the NAV1 Encoder pins, eventually directly on D12 and D13 and GND and see if it is working. don't think it's an encoder issue, I replaced the encoder on the first board to a new one, and on the second board I put another new one, and all of them have the same issue on 2 different board |
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idekkers
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Post by idekkers on Jan 9, 2024 20:55:42 GMT 2
OK, big sigh of relief, the shift register works now, my stupid mistake - I switched the data and latch pins in mobiflight  I'm ashamed now for wasting you time. 
though it's a partial success since the 3 buttons work, but all the encoder buttons still don't, which most of them are un-used, but the 2 COM ones are needed
and the NAV1 is still not working
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idekkers
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Post by idekkers on Jan 9, 2024 21:01:50 GMT 2
also, I think in the configuration XLS it would be best to call the pins DATA, Latch and Clk like in mobiflight, sine that's what got me confused?
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Post by AlbEagle on Jan 9, 2024 21:14:31 GMT 2
also, I think in the configuration XLS it would be best to call the pins DATA, Latch and Clk like in mobiflight, sine that's what got me confused? You are right, that got me confused too, that's why we had to cut the traces  , but I named them that way because of the pin names in the shift register chips. OK, big sigh of relief, the shift register works now, my stupid mistake - I switched the data and latch pins in mobiflight I'm ashamed now for wasting you time. though it's a partial success since the 3 buttons work, but all the encoder buttons still don't, which most of them are un-used, but the 2 COM ones are needed and the NAV1 is still not working
Glad to hear it is working. Don't worry about the time, I also want to make sure everything is working right. Pity that you had to solder another board just because of this. I am sure the first board will work too. Regarding the other buttons they will not work, but we can arrange with some workaround to make COM1 and COM2 encoder push buttons working, by cutting 2 traces and soldering two wires. I have fixed this in V3.2. NAV1 should be working too. Everything seems correct in the PCB, I have checked it so many times, only if I have overseen the same thing over and over again. If NAV2 is working so should NAV1 because they are designed the same way. It is really strange. Can you check the detents in Mobiflight config if you have the same as NAV2 |
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Post by idekkers on Jan 9, 2024 22:27:03 GMT 2
don't worry about the second board - that only means that now I have to build a second sim around it  . I'm almost done with the 172, now it's time for a dual engine sim... (while I'm also building a 737). since the 172 is using almost all self made parts - thanks to you and Karl from 737diysim, my Saitek gear can be used in another one. now I only have to find a new place to live after I tell my wife I'm building another and she kicks me out (rightfully).
regarding the NAV1 I have no idea what the problem is, I'll go over the configuration again.
and can you post a few pics on how to make the COM1/2 buttons work, I'll try it later today or tomorrow.
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Post by AlbEagle on Jan 9, 2024 23:32:13 GMT 2
don't worry about the second board - that only means that now I have to build a second sim around it . I'm almost done with the 172, now it's time for a dual engine sim... (while I'm also building a 737). since the 172 is using almost all self made parts - thanks to you and Karl from 737diysim, my Saitek gear can be used in another one. now I only have to find a new place to live after I tell my wife I'm building another and she kicks me out (rightfully). regarding the NAV1 I have no idea what the problem is, I'll go over the configuration again. and can you post a few pics on how to make the COM1/2 buttons work, I'll try it later today or tomorrow.
That sounds like a lot of trouble Luckily I don't have those problems, maybe because she is a Physiologist and likes flying, I also have a dedicated room but still, different sim parts and components are laying around the whole house . For COM1 push button: The pin is connected to GND, we need to isolate it and connect it to +5V, so cut the two traces like in the picture below.  On the backside cut the one trace and make sure the pin is not to connected to GND, after confirming solder a wire from the + side of the Capacitor.  |
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Post by AlbEagle on Jan 9, 2024 23:44:58 GMT 2
For COM 2 Push button On the front side, cut three traces to isolate the pin  On the back side, Cut the two traces and make sure the pin is isolated and not connected to anywhere. After confirming, solder a wire to the + sign of the C42 or anywhere on a +5V.  |
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Post by AlbEagle on Jan 11, 2024 13:08:16 GMT 2
regarding the NAV1 I have no idea what the problem is, I'll go over the configuration again. and can you post a few pics on how to make the COM1/2 buttons work, I'll try it later today or tomorrow.
Any progress on NAV1 and COM1/COM2 push buttons? |
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I'm ashamed now for wasting you time. 
, but I named them that way because of the pin names in the shift register chips.
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